Before installing black wallpaper, be sure to paint the wall black.

Recommendation: cheap concrete paint in smaller packages of 2-3 liters; can be sufficient for a wall of 10-20 m2, you can paint only the parts between the joints about 10 cm wide

The wall will dry quickly and you don’t need to paint it to be perfect but just blacken it.

It goes without saying that you will remove all the small protrusions from the surface before painting, if there are any before, because even the smallest protrusions can be seen on the black wallpaper.

Some black wallpapers can also have tufted or hairy details that, if the glue comes, change the direction of the hairs, and in the end the joints are terribly noticeable. To avoid this you need to smear the edge of the wallpaper but never the part of the wall to the wallpaper that is glued. Minimize joints!

The quality and thickness of the wallpaper greatly affect the performance of the joint. We worked a lot from the “marburg” collection, which is one of the better wallpapers for me to set. Today, textile wallpapers are increasingly being used that require double-joining techniques. On such wallpapers, regardless of whether they are black or white, no derivative joints will be noticed.

One of the wallpapers that can be painted is “Rauhfasa and Glasfaza-Glasgewebe – wallpapers with glass threads” you have them in various patterns and in various reliefs that are protruding. It is a very simple and fast installation with the “double cut” technique, and after that you can paint in whatever color you want, although it is best to follow the recommendation from the manufacturer.

If you want to protect the wallpaper so that you have it on the wall for a longer period of time, you can protect it with water-based varnish, such as “pearl” pearl gloss.

Personally, I have placed such wallpapers in several places (for example: wedding salons) and I can recommend them to anyone who would like something that is not seen every day.

We can stick wallpaper on almost all surfaces with adequate glue.

A smooth, flat, load-bearing and clean surface is in most cases a “must have” because there are wallpapers on which even the smallest protrusion or depression can be noticed. On the other hand, there are embossed wallpapers, stone wallpapers (stonplex), etc. that do not require such a surface.

We have successfully glued wallpaper on glass, chipboard, metal and other demanding surfaces.

If the wallpaper requires it, they must also be painted in a color similar to the wallpaper. No matter how much we connect the joints, they will separate after a while, but in this way they will stand out less.

It is best to stick wallpaper on knauf walls because they absorb a little glue, but it is necessary that such walls are impregnated with impregnation before installation.

On the old walls you should pay attention that they are not damp because sometimes visually and you do not notice that the smoothing mass or the backing has separated in places from the plaster and when you install the wallpaper it simply rises. Repair such walls before installing the wallpaper, ie scrape off the suspicious parts and impregnate them and patch them.

Photo wallpapers are more complicated to set than ordinary wallpapers. When installing, you must draw a vertical and horizontal line on the wall with a pencil if these are the square pieces that are most common. You must follow the instructions for gluing order. Bubbles on the photo wallpaper that appear after installation are from moisture and will disappear completely after drying. The substrate must be immaculately clean.

The only drawback of this wallpaper are the visible joints usually 2-3mm depending on how much you respect the installation time that must !!!! be always the same. If you let the wallpaper “stay” then you have a problem because the wallpaper is expanding and you will not be able to connect it. The photo wallpaper is very thin and rolls when smeared. Trimming the wallpaper is more complicated if the wallpaper is wet because it tears no matter how sharp the scalper is. Photo wallpaper that is placed in spaces requires patience and precision. Such wallpaper can be placed on the door. The door needs to be impregnated and the peephole and lock removed.

When it comes to washing photo wallpaper – be sure to avoid it because it will wash away the color of mostly all photo wallpapers. If you get glue on the surface of the wallpaper, then you need to remove it immediately, because if it stays on the wallpaper for more than a few seconds, a stain will remain that you will not be able to remove.

We use powder and dispersive adhesives. Powdery is usually used for light wallpaper because it is easier to remove them later and put some other wallpaper in the same place again. We use dispersive adhesives for heavy wallpaper mixed in the exact ratio with powder for medium heavy wallpaper. The powder adhesives are mixed in a bowl with water by pouring water first, and then pouring in a light glue with constant stirring. The glue must stand for 20 minutes (sometimes less depending on the manufacturer) and mix it again. The recommendation for the glue is METYILAN SPECIAL. The container in which you mix the glue must be perfectly clean !!!!! The water in which you pour the glue must be clean !!!!

If you are installing exclusive wide wallpapers then you need to use a strong adhesive that is applied exclusively to the wall. Never smear the wallpaper because it will soil it. This principle of wallpapering is very difficult and requires a lot of patience and knowledge from you.

There are many symbols on wallpapers that vary from wallpaper to wallpaper and need special attention. We work with many types of wallpaper because it is our daily work and the most important items that we respect when installing wallpaper are Reapeat or pattern or repeating the pattern that is written on the instructions on the front. It can be from 1 cm to 70 cm.

Then whether the wallpaper is direct or you have to wait for the relaxation time. The color fastness of the wallpaper when processing the joint in contact with glue and water.

Other symbols mean more to you as the owner in whose home an individual wallpaper will be found (for our wallpapers, in the “Information” section of each wallpaper you can see the corresponding symbols that this wallpaper has). Pay special attention to shaggy and threaded patterns due to the contact of glue and water and the extraction of fibers when making the joint. With some photo wallpapers, mainly intended for children’s rooms, the color is easily erased, so great precision and patience are required.

* FOR HOTELS OR SOME OTHER DEMANDING SPACES, WALLPAPERS MUST HAVE NON-FLAMMABILITY SIGNS !!

From one roll that is, say, 10.05 m long and 53 cm wide, you can draw 3 lengths at the average heights of the wall in the apartment, if the wallpaper has a pattern. Inspect the surface on which you are placing the wallpaper and let’s say it’s a wall (although wallpaper can be placed on any surface, but I say it all depends on the glue and the wallpaper). Start from the corner and draw a vertical that must be under the vase scale (spirit level) necessarily from the daylight source (window) and place the first ban (along the wallpaper) because the joints will be less visible, of course, assuming you smeared the wallpaper and folded to do not dry the glue. Take one end of the wallpaper and fold it by about a third towards the “top” end, which would mean that one third remains “sticky” to you. Grab that part of the wallpaper and move from the ceiling to the floor while holding the edges of the wallpaper, visually inspecting, placing the wallpaper “in the scales.” with a rubber roller from half upwards and also downwards.You can also draw the vertical with a whisk, especially if the lengths of the installation are large.Leave the wallpaper 2-3 cm longer and up and down for cutting with a scalpel.When the wallpaper has a pattern, the first length, when you open the roll of the original, turn the cut side up (in some cases the other way around, but it says on the instructions) and measure how much you have to the floor and add another 2-3 cm, now you have to lean the other length with the set dry and move to 1,10,22,32,64 and even over 70 cm to find a pattern (believe me, some wallpapers have a pattern that we know how to look for in 5 minutes.) Someone would say you take a meter and measure the pattern and cut, but the connection does not always have to be on and stom place. This is especially pronounced when the patterns are complicated and tiny so it’s safer to find it on the wall before you’ve pasted the next ban. Let’s say you have successfully glued the second ban (length) and trimmed it to the ceiling and the bottom parquet strip, then wiped off the excess glue with a wet sponge and dried it with a damp cloth. Then all you have to do is make a connection. The secret of the joint is that it is done immediately after the second ban while the wallpaper is fresh, with a plastic (ribbed roller). Hard to describe, but in principle you need to expel excess glue from the joint. Some wallpapers blend very well from the first, but some you have to pull with your hands next to each other, and this lasts… One joint of 2-10 minutes depends on the color and material of the wallpaper and even the glue.

Otherwise, this job is much easier for two, otherwise if you are not an experienced master, you will lose control of your patience and become a skeptic of wallpaper and throw away your money.

When you put wallpaper on the wall, always expel half of the air upwards and then the same procedure downwards. You can do this with rubber rulers, wide brushes, etc. Rubber rollers are ideal for expelling air because you can quickly and efficiently expel and level the wallpaper. In case you can’t put the wallpaper together or it can be separated from each other, then it is a sign that you did not put the first one in the scales or vertically. When you have bubbles on the wallpaper intended for painting, then you can poke the bubbles with a needle and pass over them with a brush dipped in glue and of course they will disappear in a couple of hours. On photo wallpapers, the bubbles pull themselves when the wallpaper is dry.

The joint is made immediately as soon as you put two bans or two lengths with a small plastic ribbed or smooth roller (depending on the wallpaper).

It’s complicated to explain the performance of a joint because you would have to see it and repeat it over and over again to make your connection perfect. Sometimes it is necessary to pull the wallpaper with your hands to the other and then use a roller to expel the excess glue. All in all, professional wallpaper installation is not an easy job because you have to have a lot of patience, a calm hand and know the materials from which the wallpaper is made.

Every day, new designs appear on the market with different materials than the previous ones, so it can happen that the instructions (symbols) are not correct. It can happen that after processing the joint, the smoothing mass or the back cracks, then precise repair is needed. The base must be load-bearing !!!!

There is a professional mace or roller with spikes with which we pass over the wallpaper in all directions. Then we pour hot water into the bucket, preferably if we have a wallpaper remover and pour it into the same water, and if not, then we can make soap. Soap is used to create foam so there is more water left on the wallpaper. We take a roller and a brush and apply water on the wallpaper, say, three times in a row and start scraping with a scraper (spatula, etc.). Some wallpapers can be easily removed by simply dragging. They are easy to remove if the surface is load-bearing and solid and if the wallpaper does not have sub-wallpaper. In this picture, Dulux is the color under the wallpaper, and when you remove the wallpaper, it is also removed. It is necessary to remove all the old paint and impregnate the surface and then re-glue the new wallpaper.

Bubbles can appear for several reasons, you can solve them yourself by simply pushing them out with a rubber roller. The first reason is that you have not read on the instructions whether the wallpaper is direct or wait a few minutes for it to soften. When you stick the wallpaper directly on the wall, and it has a time to relax, that wallpaper will start to do its thing on the wall. The first thing you notice are the bubbles you are trying to expel, but they come back again. It can also happen that the wallpaper shrinks by a few mm because you did not respect the relaxation time. Sometimes bubbles appear on the wallpaper that does not have time to relax, but because of that, even after a few hours, they recede on their own. What to do in such cases, under one follow the instructions, under two carefully remove the ban and re-apply with a time of relaxation or three by injection with a syringe. When removing the wallpaper from the wall, it often happens that we pull a layer of smoothing compound together with the wallpaper. Then it is necessary to clean the wallpaper and look at the recesses on the wall with prior impregnation. If we want to speed up the process, we can patch it with teranil extra with the addition of plaster and dry everything with a hair dryer.

Some wallpapers require a double-cut technique so that you cross them over each other up to 10 cm when you paste them. After that, you have to draw (outline) the vertical over this fold and cut both wallpapers at the same time, and believe me, it requires a lot of precision, calmness and skill. Once you have cut the joint, you pull out the lower part that is below the upper one and approach making the joint as I described about processing the joint. By the way, such wallpapers are very expensive even up to 2000 kn per roll, but they are very grateful in terms of maintenance. You can also make a double cut in the corner if it is not straight, also over each other and cut and take out the lower one, and then proceed to make the joint. You can make a double cut on oval pillars or on various protrusions with a warning that the wallpaper pattern allows a double joint. To successfully make a double cut you need to have a steady hand and patience. There are also plastic strips that are placed on the wall under the double cut to prevent damage to the wall. Plastic tapes are used only for professional installation of exclusive wallpapers. Instead of a scalper, a special tool is used to make a double cut, into which you insert the two ends of the wallpaper and pull it down. With this tool, you don’t need an aluminum slat or any ruler to cut a double cut.

Wallpapers can be stacked on top of each other several times as long as they stick well to the wall. Check to see if there are parts that have come off and re-glue them and that’s it. Again, it depends on which wallpaper goes over the old or type and color. We practice more wallpaper removal because you are safer especially since today’s wallpapers are easily removed with hot water and soap or wallpaper remover. It can happen that the front part is easily removed, and the sub-wallpaper remains on the wall. We solve this by taking an upholstery mace (a roller with thorns) and rolling out the wallpaper. In that way, we allowed the water to enter through the small holes behind the wallpaper, and of course we will find it easier to remove everything from the wall. Wallpapers can be easily separated without soaking if they have such a label on the instructions, but when gluing such wallpapers, we must also use glue that is intended for this type of wallpaper without some of our accessories.